Musical Clubs
Musical Clubs
Finally managed to get that last post out. I tried doing the remote email posting thing with the picture and it just never arrived. Hmmm, I'm told mercury is in retrograde, but whatever, digital bugs are digital bugs and when it's user error it's just that - user error.
So, this last post is a bit late. The session with Mahsin that was to happen on Saturday never happened. I called to confirm and he said he was on his way to do a workshop in Pemba, a neighboring island and that he'd be back in 2 weeks. Good thing I called to confirm.
The big recording of Safar that I was so excited for that was meant to happen today was cancelled as well. I got the heads up from Hilde, the director of the music academy, who brought good and bad news - no recording and sorry for them not contacting you, but would you like to have dinner? Yes. Of course.
So, last night I had dinner with her at her incredible rooftop apartment in Stone Town. We drank red wine and listened to Werner Graebner's 2004 recording of the Ikhwaani Safaa Musical Club (also informally known as the Malindi Musical Club) and many other choice bits. I got to hear lots of interesting gossip and insider info on local personalities, music, and the "place that is not as it seems (famous quote from Livingstone commonly seen in tourist brochures and such)." Long story short, there is a lot that goes on behind the veil so to speak. She also gave me a tip for a place to buy music and more specifically, cassettes of old school taraab. So, my promise that I'll post some music is slowly coming to fruition.
Aside from being the director of the music academy and a well known figure about town (it's so small here that you can't do ANYTHING without EVERYBODY knowing it), she is a violinist and has played with the Malindi Musical club off and on. She invited me to go and check out one of their rehearsals sometime soon. I'm very curious. A Musical Club. Hmmm..first impressions are from Buena Vista Social Club. That is a fairly apt comparison, but the main difference would be that although the Malindi Musical Club is the oldest club (founded in 1905) in Zanzibar, it is not in fact, composed of professional musicians (there are a few exceptions though, which I'll get to later). It is a Musical CLUB. Meaning, it is a social occasion. Normally, they rehearse every night. They have a starting time, but really people just show up when they show up. They go there for the music, but they also go there because they want to see friends, gossip (this has got to be one of the most important things there is to do here. for example, the greetings totally encourage this: "mambo vipi? habari yako?" how are your affairs? What's your story? and then on and on....asking about work, home, family, wife, children, whatever else), maintain an affair with the singer or whoever.
Eventually, I found my back to my new digs. I moved to a dingy little place with lumpy, uneven beds (I have 2) and too small mosquito nets. At least here I can have musicians come over to record. That is, if I can ever actually get anyone to record. ;-) My last place, although clean and nice was loud and didn't allow guests. so, I've sacrificed puritanical family regime and spotless tile floors for cracked, dirty nastiness and autonomy. it's best to be independent, me thinks.....
when I got home my friend Star (Klaus over at Out Here recordings hooked me up with him) stopped by and invited me to go with him to Bhawani, the one and only club in Zanzibar. I hesitated, but decided I had had enough wine and that if I was gonna go, this was the time, so I said yes. We hopped in a cab and in 5 minutes we were there.
Weird. Weird. Weird. It's a big place. almost like and amusement park. Tons of youth roaming around outside. Not what I had in mind for a hotel. anyway, we went up the big curved walkway that led up to the pool area. An enourmous inverted cone balanced itself over the bar area where a DJ spun modern taraab to a dancefloor that had no one on it. The pool was deep, but empty and lined with ropes. nearby was the bar with its standard caged in bar area. you have to reach through the bars to pay and get your drink. People swarmed around the pool area and the bar. We circulated. I ran into a Belgian pilot who has lived pretty much everywhere except Belgium. I ran into my new landlord (not a good sign). eventually, we decided to go down to the club. We made our way back down the curving walkway and a girl yelled out from behind me, "hey! excuse me! Rasta!" Then someone grabbed my wrist. "I want to dance with you. I like you." I still hadn't seen her yet. I said thank and see you later. I wriggled out of her grasp. never saw her again.
At the bottom of the walkway we found ourselves in front of yet another cage. This time the ticket booth. We struggled and pushed to get to the front and pay and then struggled and pushed again to get past the bouncers and inside. it got darker. Big doors. A woosh of cold air conditioned air. Smoke from a smoke machine. Lights. Loud music. Strobes. I can't really even tell you what was being played there. It was a competent sound system, but unfortunately, the music was just plain shit. Not sure how else to put it. The lyrics were always about "I want to get closer to you baby." or "Other people want to be with me, but I only want to be with you." or, "I'm gonna spend the whole night with you." Slowly, I just kind of faded that out. Still, people bumped and grinded and jived. oh yeah, my favorite was some jamaicanesque one that said something like, "I'm young and at my peak and I'm gonna shake it like that." The beats were reggaeton/bongo flava. Maybe it's me, but I hear a lot of that - loud - and it leaves me flat and empty. Like there's just no energy from the heart in there. I sat down and watched people for a bit. there were some very sexy girls there grinding mostly on white guys. not really sure what the arrangement was there. Decided I didn't give a fuck and then just closed my eyes and reclined on the couch and tried to get into the music. Couldn't do it. Not even to feel the bass in my stomach. So, I left.
today, i went to meet with my other new contact, Matona. he is lovely and super enthusiastic. Aside from being a teacher at the music academy, he is a member of Malindi musical club, has his own quartet, plays in Safar as well as various other projects. He is totally down with blending hip hop and ragga with taraab and arabic music. I played him my 73 bpm rugged beats with a little hesitation. he just seems so nice and I thought he might take it a little strangely. On the contrary. He starting singing on top of it and I envisioned a chorus of women singing. he agreed. yes, that is the chorus. we can get call some women to sing for us. Well. Okay! That's what I'm talking about. He liked my idea of a taqsim and distorted drones. they rehearsed a little bit - some old taraab tunes with vocals toward the end. Damn! I found my peoples! So, we'll be hooking up tomorrow late afternoon.......this week should be interesting.
Finally managed to get that last post out. I tried doing the remote email posting thing with the picture and it just never arrived. Hmmm, I'm told mercury is in retrograde, but whatever, digital bugs are digital bugs and when it's user error it's just that - user error.
So, this last post is a bit late. The session with Mahsin that was to happen on Saturday never happened. I called to confirm and he said he was on his way to do a workshop in Pemba, a neighboring island and that he'd be back in 2 weeks. Good thing I called to confirm.
The big recording of Safar that I was so excited for that was meant to happen today was cancelled as well. I got the heads up from Hilde, the director of the music academy, who brought good and bad news - no recording and sorry for them not contacting you, but would you like to have dinner? Yes. Of course.
So, last night I had dinner with her at her incredible rooftop apartment in Stone Town. We drank red wine and listened to Werner Graebner's 2004 recording of the Ikhwaani Safaa Musical Club (also informally known as the Malindi Musical Club) and many other choice bits. I got to hear lots of interesting gossip and insider info on local personalities, music, and the "place that is not as it seems (famous quote from Livingstone commonly seen in tourist brochures and such)." Long story short, there is a lot that goes on behind the veil so to speak. She also gave me a tip for a place to buy music and more specifically, cassettes of old school taraab. So, my promise that I'll post some music is slowly coming to fruition.
Aside from being the director of the music academy and a well known figure about town (it's so small here that you can't do ANYTHING without EVERYBODY knowing it), she is a violinist and has played with the Malindi Musical club off and on. She invited me to go and check out one of their rehearsals sometime soon. I'm very curious. A Musical Club. Hmmm..first impressions are from Buena Vista Social Club. That is a fairly apt comparison, but the main difference would be that although the Malindi Musical Club is the oldest club (founded in 1905) in Zanzibar, it is not in fact, composed of professional musicians (there are a few exceptions though, which I'll get to later). It is a Musical CLUB. Meaning, it is a social occasion. Normally, they rehearse every night. They have a starting time, but really people just show up when they show up. They go there for the music, but they also go there because they want to see friends, gossip (this has got to be one of the most important things there is to do here. for example, the greetings totally encourage this: "mambo vipi? habari yako?" how are your affairs? What's your story? and then on and on....asking about work, home, family, wife, children, whatever else), maintain an affair with the singer or whoever.
Eventually, I found my back to my new digs. I moved to a dingy little place with lumpy, uneven beds (I have 2) and too small mosquito nets. At least here I can have musicians come over to record. That is, if I can ever actually get anyone to record. ;-) My last place, although clean and nice was loud and didn't allow guests. so, I've sacrificed puritanical family regime and spotless tile floors for cracked, dirty nastiness and autonomy. it's best to be independent, me thinks.....
when I got home my friend Star (Klaus over at Out Here recordings hooked me up with him) stopped by and invited me to go with him to Bhawani, the one and only club in Zanzibar. I hesitated, but decided I had had enough wine and that if I was gonna go, this was the time, so I said yes. We hopped in a cab and in 5 minutes we were there.
Weird. Weird. Weird. It's a big place. almost like and amusement park. Tons of youth roaming around outside. Not what I had in mind for a hotel. anyway, we went up the big curved walkway that led up to the pool area. An enourmous inverted cone balanced itself over the bar area where a DJ spun modern taraab to a dancefloor that had no one on it. The pool was deep, but empty and lined with ropes. nearby was the bar with its standard caged in bar area. you have to reach through the bars to pay and get your drink. People swarmed around the pool area and the bar. We circulated. I ran into a Belgian pilot who has lived pretty much everywhere except Belgium. I ran into my new landlord (not a good sign). eventually, we decided to go down to the club. We made our way back down the curving walkway and a girl yelled out from behind me, "hey! excuse me! Rasta!" Then someone grabbed my wrist. "I want to dance with you. I like you." I still hadn't seen her yet. I said thank and see you later. I wriggled out of her grasp. never saw her again.
At the bottom of the walkway we found ourselves in front of yet another cage. This time the ticket booth. We struggled and pushed to get to the front and pay and then struggled and pushed again to get past the bouncers and inside. it got darker. Big doors. A woosh of cold air conditioned air. Smoke from a smoke machine. Lights. Loud music. Strobes. I can't really even tell you what was being played there. It was a competent sound system, but unfortunately, the music was just plain shit. Not sure how else to put it. The lyrics were always about "I want to get closer to you baby." or "Other people want to be with me, but I only want to be with you." or, "I'm gonna spend the whole night with you." Slowly, I just kind of faded that out. Still, people bumped and grinded and jived. oh yeah, my favorite was some jamaicanesque one that said something like, "I'm young and at my peak and I'm gonna shake it like that." The beats were reggaeton/bongo flava. Maybe it's me, but I hear a lot of that - loud - and it leaves me flat and empty. Like there's just no energy from the heart in there. I sat down and watched people for a bit. there were some very sexy girls there grinding mostly on white guys. not really sure what the arrangement was there. Decided I didn't give a fuck and then just closed my eyes and reclined on the couch and tried to get into the music. Couldn't do it. Not even to feel the bass in my stomach. So, I left.
today, i went to meet with my other new contact, Matona. he is lovely and super enthusiastic. Aside from being a teacher at the music academy, he is a member of Malindi musical club, has his own quartet, plays in Safar as well as various other projects. He is totally down with blending hip hop and ragga with taraab and arabic music. I played him my 73 bpm rugged beats with a little hesitation. he just seems so nice and I thought he might take it a little strangely. On the contrary. He starting singing on top of it and I envisioned a chorus of women singing. he agreed. yes, that is the chorus. we can get call some women to sing for us. Well. Okay! That's what I'm talking about. He liked my idea of a taqsim and distorted drones. they rehearsed a little bit - some old taraab tunes with vocals toward the end. Damn! I found my peoples! So, we'll be hooking up tomorrow late afternoon.......this week should be interesting.






